Build Your Own Clone Message Board

This was my 1st BYOC build. Everything seemed to go well - thank you BYOC for an awesome kit with quality parts and clear instructions !
My question is this: I'll dial in the sound I like ( depth control usually ends up around 3 o'clock ), then take a break and turn pedal off. When I turn pedal back on, depth is way huge for about 5 seconds, then settles back down again. The pots are in correct locations, and I'm pretty sure everything else is correct per instructions. Any ideas how I can correct this ? All other operations of pedal seem pretty great.
Any help is greatly appreciated and thanks again BYOC for a great pedal ( I have since built Spring Reverb and love that one too ! ) !

Bah-bu-bu-bump ...

Never heard of that myself, but leave this up for a bit and I'll bet somebody comes by with an idea or two for you....

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“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

Yeah, I've never heard of that before either. I wonder if there is a cap that is discharging or something? Just a total shot in the dark, not being familiar with how the LFO works. Couldn't hurt to post some photos…

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Scott

My band, Austin Hollow

Please post photos of your build as advised here: http://www.byocelectronics.com/board/viewtopic.php?f=29&t=34025

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MasterDelayer/Reverbrador/Ampaholic/TopJacker

Thanks for your responses. Hope this pic isn't too crappy...

Is this happening every time you take the pedal out of bypass (while still powered) or when you turn on the actual power to the pedal?

If it's the later, does it only do this if you leave it in bypass for a while and then turn it back on, but doesn't do it if only leave it in bypass for a few seconds?

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*patience is a virtue*

Please do not PM me. email is prefered. keith@buildyourownclone.com

Pedal is powered by battery only. When effect activated by footswitch, depth is huge for a few seconds before it "settles down". Depth is then subtle and consistent. When turned off by footswitch, and a little time goes by, then turned on again with footswitch it's huge again for a few seconds. It actually sounds great, but I'd like to learn what's going on with it.

Thanks again for helping me with this.

Have you tried powering it with a 9V DC center-negative power supply to see if it behaves the same way??

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“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

Ah, interesting... I don't think I have an AC adapter ( I really don't use pedals, more trying to gain experience for an amp build ), but I'll recheck my Box Full O' Crap and see if there's one in there. Earlier research on this board made me think it's a capacitor issue, but I am quite the noob...

Given your unfamiliarity with it, please make sure you only use a 9v center-negative regulated power supply. There are lots of adapters that will fit into the DC jack on the pedal, but not all of them are safe to use!

If you're not sure, post a photo of the printing on the back of the wall wart, and we'll let you know if it's safe to proceed.

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Scott

My band, Austin Hollow

Scott, thanks for the tip - I'm generally a force-it-in, fire-it-up and see what happens kinda guy ( see user name ). My buddy should have correct power supply, I'll hit him up if he's not socially distancing in the extreme.

Well, there's nothing useful in my Box-Full-O'-Crap ( does anyone want to buy a Box Full O' Crap... Cheap ...? )

I hope to have correct power supply tomorrow and will keep you posted. Appreciate all thoughts, suggestions and advice to this point !

Lastly, may I ask if lack of comments on my soldering "skills" bodes well ?

I think so. What I can see looks quite good.

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

I'm not sure what could cause this. I'd say that the problem is definitely in the LFO portion of the circuit. Maybe one of the 3 x 1uF caps in the LFO are bad. If you have a 2N5089 or BC109C or a transistor that is higher gain than the 2N5088 in the LFO, you could try replacing that. I've found that higher gain transistors seem to make the LFO more stable.

_________________
*patience is a virtue*

Please do not PM me. email is prefered. keith@buildyourownclone.com

Thank you Keith ( and everyone ). I've been googling so I wouldn't ask more stupid questions, but was unsuccessful - prepare for more stupid questions... ( At least I know what LFO stands for )

Can I check capacitors "in circuit" with this cheap-o multimeter (see attached ) ?

I have 2N457 and 2N3904 transistors. Are they appropriate ? ( there are two 5088's - not sure which one is in LFO )

Again I want to say I'm happy with my BYOC purchase and have mad respect for this community.

It's not the fault of the inexpensive meter but, no, you can't reliably measure capacitors or resistors when they're installed in a circuit. The issue is the possibility of parallel circuit paths which lead to erroneous readings. If you lift one end of the cap or resistor out of the circuit, then you can measure it accurately.


As longs as you installed them as directed on page 10 of the instructions, you'll be fine. You want to be sure that you have the 5457's in the red outlined spots and a 5088 in the yellow one. The blue spots can have 5088's or 3904's.

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“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

Thanks, that's great info - and a great social distancing project ! After taking pics, I put pedal back together and am gonna smoke, drink and play for awhile. Appreciate all sage words so far.

I'll check in later. Until then, be safe everyone - this covid sh×t show is real ...

Hi, just wondering if you got this sorted out? I’m having the exact same issue.
Pedal sounds amazing aside from this issue... Thanks!