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PostPosted: Thu May 01, 2008 3:58 pm 
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Location: West Wales ... isn't it.
I know it's mentioned plenty, but I just need to post this ...

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Picture property of Naz Nomad

This simple device has once again prevented bloodshed in my village, much to the joy of my better half. :D


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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 06, 2008 2:53 am 
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reachjkh wrote:
small clip-on heat sink to protect delicate components while soldering
Image


72 marshall master volume mark II heads(2) and 1968 original basket weave with plastic covered gold thread piping on top. One I have had for 18 years and the other for 15 and I have not had ONE PROBLEM EVER. I even jammed at a house where the power was configured and was 220v into my 115v amp. My amp was extra loud and sounded weird and lit up the wall behind the amp. I even continued to play at first and realized that maybe I should check out what was causing the amp to light up the room. No Problem ever. I go 2-3 years with the same tubes, sounds awesome from start to finish. I change my tubes myself with a Groove Tubes tool. I have had to replace the Output coupling caps ONCE. These amps are built using military parts for aircraft and radio/radar used by the company Rolls Royce and other English companies that built military equipment. So it's somewhat "Mil Spec". I believe that the use of military grade parts from the 50's and' 60's is the reason these amps are the best you can get. Get one and you will actually write a will, and specify being buried with the amp. I have mine and you can't have it/them. I want to be buried with my favorite strat and paul and my custom built tube screamer and my favorite 50 Watt Marshall. :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted:


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 06, 2008 10:08 am 
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this last post makes abolutely no sense in context.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 06, 2008 11:34 am 
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Fuzzdawg wrote:
this last post makes abolutely no sense in context.


It's a good story. I have no idea what it has to do with tools for pedal work, or with a clip on heat sink for that matter. But a cool story nonetheless :)

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 06, 2008 12:56 pm 
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tonedeaf wrote:
I have no idea what it has to do with tools for pedal work, or with a clip on heat sink for that matter.

Perhaps that's just his signature? :lol:

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 05, 2008 5:28 pm 
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Ok so this is a great thread and very helpful. But as a starter I'd like to see a essential list of tools that you absolutley need for these projects.

Im curious as to what size iron, solder, etc.

It's the worst to buy something and not have the tools to put it together, so I'm making a check list so I'm prepared.


Thanks


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 Post subject: Re: Re:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 05, 2008 6:33 pm 
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psychotech wrote:
reachjkh wrote:
small clip-on heat sink to protect delicate components while soldering
Image


72 marshall master volume mark II heads(2) and 1968 original basket weave with plastic covered gold thread piping on top. One I have had for 18 years and the other for 15 and I have not had ONE PROBLEM EVER. I even jammed at a house where the power was configured and was 220v into my 115v amp. My amp was extra loud and sounded weird and lit up the wall behind the amp. I even continued to play at first and realized that maybe I should check out what was causing the amp to light up the room. No Problem ever. I go 2-3 years with the same tubes, sounds awesome from start to finish. I change my tubes myself with a Groove Tubes tool. I have had to replace the Output coupling caps ONCE. These amps are built using military parts for aircraft and radio/radar used by the company Rolls Royce and other English companies that built military equipment. So it's somewhat "Mil Spec". I believe that the use of military grade parts from the 50's and' 60's is the reason these amps are the best you can get. Get one and you will actually write a will, and specify being buried with the amp. I have mine and you can't have it/them. I want to be buried with my favorite strat and paul and my custom built tube screamer and my favorite 50 Watt Marshall. :twisted::twisted::twisted::twisted::twisted::twisted::twisted::twisted::twisted::twisted::twisted::twisted::twisted::twisted::twisted::twisted::twisted::twisted::twisted::twisted::twisted::twisted


Ok i think I figured it out!!! If you go back and look at reachjkh's original post you will see that his signature says something to the affect of burning electronics... maybe?!?! :?


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 05, 2008 8:47 pm 
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truthsandrights wrote:
Ok so this is a great thread and very helpful. But as a starter I'd like to see a essential list of tools that you absolutley need for these projects.

Im curious as to what size iron, solder, etc.

It's the worst to buy something and not have the tools to put it together, so I'm making a check list so I'm prepared.


Thanks

Here's a list of items I consider essential for building FX pedals.

* 25W Soldering Iron w/ conical tip
Image

* .031" (0.81 mm) diameter resin core solder
Image

* Iron stand w/ sponge
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* Wire cutters
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* Needle nose pliers
Image

* X-acto knife
Image

* Helping hands
Image
or my DIY helping hands
Image

* Desoldering iron or pump
Image
Image
Image

* Solder flux
Image

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 05, 2008 9:58 pm 
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THANKS! Thats exactly what I was looking for. Sorry to put you through the trouble, I appreciate your effort. Helps me a bunch.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 15, 2008 1:26 pm 
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Location: Talkeetna Mountains
Styrofoam organizer:

I don't have a dedicated place to build - all my stuff is portable, and I don't keep massive amounts of parts on-hand. When it comes time to build, I whip out this organizer (can't remember where it came from - re-purposed from some electronics purchase I think) put a fresh strip of masking tape across the top, label all the resistor values. Then I measure each resistor with my DVM and poke each through the tape at the right spot. I rarely use the wrong resistor with this tool and method.

Then I organize all the caps and other stuff, sticking each into the styro as appropriate. With this, I can move around with it, bump into it, etc, and it rarely spills (much). Indispensible for my style and space. As I clip stuff and make all the bits of rubbish that come with pedal building, it goes into one of the wells of the unit for proper disposal later.

Image

Image

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 16, 2008 7:07 am 
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2x6L6 wrote:
Styrofoam organizer:

I don't have a dedicated place to build - all my stuff is portable, and I don't keep massive amounts of parts on-hand. When it comes time to build, I whip out this organizer (can't remember where it came from - re-purposed from some electronics purchase I think) put a fresh strip of masking tape across the top, label all the resistor values. Then I measure each resistor with my DVM and poke each through the tape at the right spot. I rarely use the wrong resistor with this tool and method.

Then I organize all the caps and other stuff, sticking each into the styro as appropriate. With this, I can move around with it, bump into it, etc, and it rarely spills (much). Indispensible for my style and space. As I clip stuff and make all the bits of rubbish that come with pedal building, it goes into one of the wells of the unit for proper disposal later.

Image

Image


This is brilliant. I gotta do this.

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My, that IS a big one!


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 25, 2008 8:55 am 
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Get one and you will actually write a will, and specify being buried with the amp. I have mine and you can't have it/them. I want to be buried with my favorite strat and paul and my custom built tube screamer and my favorite 50 Watt Marshall.

This won't happen if your Probate Lawyer is also a guitarist!! 8) 8) 8)

Red

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 05, 2008 4:42 pm 
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For people in the US, Pan-a-vise makes a great circuit board holder. It's overkill for effects boards, but if you either have a Pan-a-Vise, (so that buying the attachment to hold CBs is not that expensive) or work on bigger boards, it's really worth it. It holds the board and you can flip it over so you stuff in the parts, flip it, solder and trim, flip, stuff more...

Other tools that I use occasionally, but when I need them—they are great—are

1. miniature set of reamers (perfect for enlarging holes)
2. long nosed, flush cut end nippers
3. a de-soldering iron

alligator clips are perfect as small heat sinks.

Alan


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 06, 2008 9:51 am 
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I bought the pana vise jr. specifically for working on circuit boards. I love it. It wasn't -too- expensive, maybe $30 or so at MCM. But it's been a huge help working on soldering boards - I can crank them out now, doing the same as you mentioned - flipping the board over without unclamping it. I put like 5 or 6 components in from the topside, flip the jaws over, solder them in, then flip back. It's great! I find it a lot easier to use then helping hands, though helping hands are so very much less expensive :)

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 17, 2008 9:02 am 
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Just because I saw someone using hot melt for this application in another thread, a cheap alternative to (and almost equally effective as) Loctite is nail polish. Got a nut you don't want to come loose inside an enclosure? Dab some nail polish on it and the screw and/or the enclosure. It'll keep the nut from rattling loose but you can still unscrew it if need be.

I went to go buy some cheap nail polish at a drug store for this application. It took me a minute to find the cheapest stuff they had. Once I did I was standing there thinking, "Alright, now what color do I want?... Hmmm... I don't want clear because I want to actually see it pretty easily... No, that shade of red won't do, it's far too girly... Definitely not pink... Oooo, I like that color... but what about this one?... MAN WTF AM I DOING JUST GRAB ONE!!!" :lol: Then at the counter the young girl working the register said, "Is this it?" "Yep..." "It's a lovely shade..." :oops: :lol: Hey, I was single at the time. Just get your girlfriend or wife to give you an old bottle or pick one up for you. Unless you don't care about swallowing your pride and buying female products in public like me. :wink:


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 08, 2009 1:26 pm 
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This is pehaps the coolest thing I've seen tool-wise in a long time. It's great for ANY nut you'll encounter in pedal building:

Image

I use mine all the time.

Mike


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 08, 2009 2:53 pm 
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Hey Mike - where can we get one of those? It'd be absolutely fantastic for these internal nut AC jacks!!

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 08, 2009 3:04 pm 
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Oh, Man, sorry! I forgot the url: http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Wrenches/ESP_Multi_Spanner.html It's Stewart McDonald...


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 08, 2009 9:13 pm 
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mmarsh wrote:
This is pehaps the coolest thing I've seen tool-wise in a long time. It's great for ANY nut you'll encounter in pedal building:

I use mine all the time.

Mike

Funny - I just discovered this tool and received mine in the mail yesterday. Don't know how I ever lived without it. Smart stuff!

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 08, 2009 9:18 pm 
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Ja, just so!


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 06, 2009 8:23 am 
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Flush cutters,

Already mentioned, but here's a 5 dollar version that works great for the precision stuff.

http://www.amazon.com/Xcelite-170M-5-Sh ... B0002BBZIS

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 19, 2009 5:40 am 
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Here are a couple of tools that are IMO "must haves" for those of you that want to layout and drill your own enclosures.

First is a set of calipers. These are great for taking accurate measurements. They're really handy for determining how deep the enclosure is or how thick it's walls are. The second tool is a square. I use it along with the calipers to the slide on the square. Once I've done that I rest the slide against the side of an enclosure and then use the third item which is a scribe tool to lightly scratch a line onto the surface of the enclosure. The scribe is from a needle gun that's used to chip away welding slag. I use my bench grinder to sharpen one end of the needle. The scratched lines make for a more accurate layout for drilling as opposed to using a pencil or whatever.

Image
Image

Needle gun

Image

Here's a 1590A enclosure I've drilled for a build. You can see where the scribed lines were for drilling the holes.

Image
Image

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 19, 2009 8:01 am 
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Fuzzdawg wrote:
this last post makes abolutely no sense in context.


I'd just let him have it. It's not in context, but it's a cool story. Let's not be forum nazis - LOL. I've been on forums where they literally rip you a new one for posting out of context, and I'd hate to see us go down this road. I think we all know which particular forum I'm talking about - LOL. :)

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 19, 2009 8:28 am 
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Stephen - thanks again for the tips man! I never thought of this, which I should have.. I own calipers and still I use a ruler to do this stuff!

That needle gun looks pretty serious. Is that used in palce of a chipping hammer? Never seen anything like that before.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 19, 2009 10:55 am 
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I use my calipers all the time. I'd be lost without them.

Yep, it's just a pneumatic chip hammer. It's a helluva lot faster than a regular chip hammer that's for sure.

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