Build Your Own Clone Message Board

Can I do envirotex over a cured layer of envirotex? Sorry of that is a dumb question, I've never worked with epoxy before.

I've never had an issue doing multiple pours with the stuff I've used. One was the no blush from some site, the other was the stuff sold at Lowe's. However, I have never used envirotex. This sort of stuff is usually mentioned in the instructions for the epoxy. Sometimes there will be a window of time where you can or cannot do a second coat. You may have to sand, or it may be ok without sanding. And lastly, they may recommend not to use a second coat. I'd grab the data sheet/instructions for the epoxy and see.

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-Mike

Lord knows I've done a few second pours as the first didn't turn out. No issues. I did not sand like Defaced mentions but had I thought of it I might have hit it with my 2000 grit, just to rough up slightly. But yeah, another pour is just fine. Here is a 2 pour pedal I screwed up the first time



The white water slides are just that. If you were to peel it off it would be totally white. It is just a little thicker so hiding the edges is a little tougher. I really don't worry about it though. I really try extra hard to cut those edges right as they hit the edge of the pedal so when looking down you simply don't see them. The pedal above I left a pedal edge on purpose. It was a clear one anyway.

And that epoxy is self leveling so I would think it would smooth out the bumps but defaced brings up a good idea to maybe try. I think I would first try the decal over the bumps. I mean if after it dries it lifted up too much, just peel it off and try plan B. I always print up 2-3 decals on one sheet to allow for all my screw ups.

This pedal is one of my first white backing. You can see I didn't get it near the edge, like I do know, but I think the edge looks ok.



anyway, good luck. Take a level and make sure that enclosure is level or it will drain on you and leave the upper edge "dry". Ask me how I know

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a couple on my toothpick method were not perfectly level. it didn't run completely off, but you can see where one side is thinner if you look for it.

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If practice makes perfect, and nobody is perfect, then why practice?

It hurts me to say this.. but.. follow me on facebook and.. instagram

Yeah, I've got 2 pedals that way where it is thin. It's just not worth a repour though. I have mine on long golf tees through cardboard. I created about 5 jigs for different size enclosures and have about a 1" lip on each and just reuse it until the stuff gets to the 1" lip and then I make a new jig. But I always use a small torpedo level to get them right.

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Well my first time using epoxy... and frankly I'm just happy it hardened. It did fill in all the gaps though, so I'm thinking labels on the now flat surface, and then another pour, hopefully a better one this time.

Any recommendations on getting the sides covered, these are a bit messy on the sides.

The sides is the toughest part of this and getting good coverage. I usually drown my sides in my case, thus my extra waste and of course money. Spin had very little waste so maybe he has it figured out. In my case I make sure that epoxy covers every inch of that side as I pour slowly. Once I'm done I will typically, unless I just got lucky and feel good about it, pour again right back over those sides and in patricular the jack holes sides. I've got to drown those usually if you will. I scrape the bottom with something for about 20 minutes and after that I don't like to mess with it. I let the chips fall where they may. I think some may scrape their bottom for about 30-40 minutes after. The idea here to have as small of a lip as possible. Of course I tape the inside of my enclosure with painter's tape so as to draw and pull that epoxy down beyond the edge. It does help me a lot but does not eliminate the edge entirely. I like the small edge though.

I guess I should ask, by messy on the sides what exactly do you mean?

I also wait 2 days to trim, drill or whatever. I do this for 2 reasons. One, any sooner and by you holding the enclosure tight you may leave finger prints in it. Two, it is dry enough but not totally dry and thus when cutting I feel I get better control of the blade. It just comes off better for me. I've waited a week before and it was too brittle for my liking to trim. Drilling is ok, but the trimming part I like better after 2 days, or 3 if I just can't get to it.

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For what it's worth, here's how I do decals.
(full description in the youtube description)

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Basic Audio Pedals

That's great. If you have more unlisted videos with build tips that wouldn't give away your trade secrets, I'd love to see them!

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Scott

My band, Austin Hollow

^ Thanks! This is the first so far. Just got
a new camera with video capability
so I'll make some as I see fit.

John

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Basic Audio Pedals

I just did my first two pedals, came out very good- thanks for all the info here. What I learned: I got the inkjet transfer paper from small bear, found the micro sol solution in the model section at the local Hobby Lobby. Worked out my pattern in Word, printed on paper first to adjust fit. Full face looks better- no line across face of pedal. Set printer for best print, glossy photo paper. Two coats of acrylic spray to cover ink. 30-45 econd soak in lukewarm water, keep fingers damp.

For my Tonebender MkII I painted the pedal with rough texture auto interior trunk spray paint to get the speckling I wanted (couldn't find the right metallic). Sanded the top mostly smooth, two spray coats of acrylic, used a small brush to paint the surface of the pedal with the micro sol solution hoping it would soften the decal enough to form fit the texture but still not cause the ink to run- worked fine, even with inkjet printing. Used a damp sponge to squeege out the water. If you did model decals as a kid it's the same concept- piece of cake.

FWIW- the micro sol smells very much like concentrated acetic acid (vinegar).

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Twisting and tinning is for chumps.

What do you guys recommend for clear coat? I used an acrylic spray and did about 10 passes (I wanted a nice protective layer, also to conceal the decal edges). Well now the clear coat has yellowed (about a year later). And on another pedal (this one with maybe 15 coats) the clear coat is cracking. Is epoxy the way to go?

The Envirotex will yellow if on a white pedal. You can't, or I can't, see it with any other color. I really can't comment on the lacquer doing it's thing after this much time. I would have thought it would have done whatever it was going to do much sooner.

I did an experiment a couple years back (the results were SQL'd during a meltdown here) but I used Urethane. It yellowed too on a white enclosure but you could try that if you were so inclined. The most durable is the Helsman in a green can or spray in terms of what you can buy at Home Depot etc...

Disclaimer: I never used this for a real pedal however post experiment. But I know it would work and it is not as squirrley as lacquer. But in my case once I went epoxy and got past the learning curve I didn't need to try anything else really for my needs...read home hacker.

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Am I to understand that Clear-coating a Laser printed Laser Water-slide Decal is the way to go before applying the decal?

I plan on clear-coating a few lite layers AFTER the full face decal is applied for sure. I'm just totally confused about when to apply clear coat to the decal.

I have read this thread from beginning to end and back again and still I am unsure as to when to apply clear coat to the decal. I got the impression that Bubble Jet/Ink Jet ink runs, flakes and/or chips without a clear coat before applying to the pedal surface. I did NOT get that impression about the Laser printed decal.

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Can't get the build done fast enough! Not sure if it's the clear coat fumes I'm smellin' or the beer I'm drinkin'! Go Hawks!

If you are using a laser printer I've never used those but I've read you don't have to clear coat but I personally don't know.

If I didn't have to I would not clear it. Hopefully someone with laser experience will chime in.

Inkjet will run every time.

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Thanks BluesHawk for the reply. One very important fact I learned from the Guy at Office "something or other" yesterday, was that if you use NON LASER media, it will ruin your Laser Printer; even Inkjet labels in a Laser Printer will melt the glue onto your drum. All I could find was Inkjet Water slide locally, so I will be using the Inkjet printer Santa left under the tree for my wife recently. That Santa's a clever fella.

Thanks man.

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Can't get the build done fast enough! Not sure if it's the clear coat fumes I'm smellin' or the beer I'm drinkin'! Go Hawks!