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 Post subject: Re: Subba's decal tips
PostPosted: Wed Feb 16, 2011 9:51 am 
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Where does one buy the transparent decal printer paper for laserprinters? I went to my local office supply shop (Staples) and they never heard of it. Just need one or two sheets, not a big package.


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 Post subject: Re: Subba's decal tips
PostPosted: Wed Feb 16, 2011 10:07 am 
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koen wrote:
Where does one buy the transparent decal printer paper for laserprinters? I went to my local office supply shop (Staples) and they never heard of it. Just need one or two sheets, not a big package.

I had the same experience, though I was looking for the inkjet variety. Are you looking for waterslide decal paper or the self adhesive stuff? I got self adhesive from amazon.

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 Post subject: Re: Subba's decal tips
PostPosted: Wed Feb 16, 2011 11:23 am 
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Whatever works, I just want to add lettering, no pictures.


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 Post subject: Re: Subba's decal tips
PostPosted: Wed Feb 16, 2011 11:38 am 
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People have found the waterslide stuff at hobby stores, or a couple locations online (would have to do a search here). Smallbear carries it as well. With the waterslide and decal softener you'd be able to cut out individual letters/words from the sheet. With the self-adhesive stuff, which is thicker, you'd more likely have to print the whole face of the pedal.

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 Post subject: Re: Subba's decal tips
PostPosted: Wed Feb 16, 2011 12:01 pm 
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Location: East of the Mississippi
Thanks - I'll check the local hobby store for the waterslide stuff.


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 Post subject: Re: Subba's decal tips
PostPosted: Thu Feb 24, 2011 8:52 pm 
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Location: Oklahoma
Small Bear sells it by the sheet for $2 for a 8x11 and I've seen Hobby Lobby (and similar stores) carry the Testors brand 5x8's, $10 for 5 sheets.


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 Post subject: Re: Subba's decal tips
PostPosted: Wed Apr 13, 2011 1:58 pm 
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Location: Franklin, IN
Pedal Friends,
I've been reading as much as possible about inkjet waterslide decals and micro sol. I've ordered and have both. I have the BYOC Chorus kit and will build it upon completion of decalling the enclosure. Anyways, I want to "wrap" this decal paper over the entire pedal so that it looks like it's been painted on all sides. I figured I'd cut the decal paper, once it's been printed with the design(and clear coated), on the four corners (like wrapping a christmas gift) to get the excess decal paper out of the way, then use the micro sol to melt the edges together so that it looks uniform and so that it does not look like a sticker stuck on the enclosure. My question is: do I apply the micro sol over the entire enclosure(decal) or just the corners(edges)? I've used the decal paper before on the ESV Fuzz with great results, but that was only on the top of the enclosure. Now I want all sides to have the design, and I'm not much of a painter, thus the decal paper will be applied to all 5 sides. Any suggestions????


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 Post subject: Re: Subba's decal tips
PostPosted: Thu Apr 14, 2011 9:46 am 
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Location: Franklin, IN
Blueshawk,
Thanks for the reply! I too have heard all the dread about ink bleed after applying the microsol. I normally always apply two-three coats of spray clear coat (Krylon) before soaking the decal to get the backing paper off, then place the decal on the enclosure. I figured the same as you, that I would put maybe a third application of clear coat on the decal after it has been cut to "wrap around the enclosure" to seal the edges of the decal to hopefully seal and prevent ink runoff. I'm proplexed. I don't know if I should try and leave the entire decal as one piece and wrap it around the enclosure or cut each individual side and apply each side individually. The design is a trippy kick ass design that hopefully will turn out fantastic! Just didn't know the best application approach. Ever used Microset? I read on various other posts people use that first to help move the decal around into position on the enclosure first, then use the microsol to melt the decal. I bought both, as I figured it couldn't hurt. It seems other people have use it and have had good results.
Again, thanks for the reply. Once I actually get the guts to move forward with the decal, I'll post my comments and a photo (good or bad) so that others can see the results!
Peace!


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 Post subject: Re: Subba's decal tips
PostPosted: Sat May 07, 2011 12:05 am 
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Or, stencil… lay a coat of white paint down on the area’s the image will cover. Also, you can cut out blank white decal paper in the size and shape of the image, apply, then ad the full face decal with the image and text on top.

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 Post subject: Re: Subba's decal tips
PostPosted: Fri Dec 23, 2011 4:47 pm 
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Posts: 1
Hi all. New here and looking to finsh off a Large Beaver. This thread has been helpful so thanks to all. I was wondering if anyone has tried these vinyl dry transfer letters on a pedal and how they worked out? Also built a model speed boat recently, named it "Dark Star" and the white letters looked good against the dark mahogany with no bleed through on the white so they may work.

Im' going for a sorta commercial look on the beaver - a name and everything else labeled - and perhaps a simple free hand graphic done with model paint or paint pens. I'm handy with rattle cans but I'm not looking to put a lot of time into this so I figure primer, color then clear over everything. Or I may try to create a swirl pattern in the aluminum case with a course cupped wire brush in a drill press and forget the color paint. Or do you think that would screw it up?


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 Post subject: Re: Subba's decal tips
PostPosted: Fri Jan 06, 2012 10:46 am 
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Joined: Sun Dec 11, 2011 8:27 pm
Posts: 10
Anyone know where I can get a higher res copy of that badass FunkenBerry graphic? This would be my first full face, and of course its for personal use only.

I also saw a graphic called "Trem-os" once, I think it looked kind of like a box of Jello, but I cant seem to find it, and I would love to put that on my EA trem as well. You guys know where I can find that one?

I wish I was better at graphics, or even had a graphics package, but I just don't think I can come up with something cooler than that what I am seeing on-line.


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 Post subject: Re: Subba's decal tips
PostPosted: Fri Jan 06, 2012 9:01 pm 
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yes I have, and for some reason funkenberry only returns pictures of prince.


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 Post subject: Re: Subba's decal tips
PostPosted: Sat Jan 07, 2012 7:53 am 
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aballen wrote:
for some reason funkenberry only returns pictures of prince.

This is hysterical!!!

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 Post subject: Re: Subba's decal tips
PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 7:03 pm 
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When is the best time to apply the clear coat over the waterslide once it is put on the enclosure? 20-30 minutes later?

Also, when is the best time to do the holes in the waterslide for the knobs? After the clear coat dries once mounted on the enclosure?


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 Post subject: Re: Subba's decal tips
PostPosted: Thu Jan 12, 2012 3:08 am 
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I always leave the decal at least overnight to dry. Firstly to make sure it won't move and secondly to ensure that the enclosure isn't damp. Then cut out holes before the clear coat. Take your time with the holes and use a sharp pointy knife - the edge of the decal can lift or flake around the edges. I paint a little Micro Sol around the edges to stick them down after cutting.

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 Post subject: Re: Subba's decal tips
PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 11:41 pm 
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I'm using laser paper decals and when I cut them out the print around the edge is flaking away. How can I avoid this? I read about the decal spray earlier, but I thought that was only for ink jet decals.

Also, I bought the red label micro sol and painted it on after applying the decal and spot drying it, but it didn't do the melt thing many people described. It smoothed out the wrinkles, but no melt effect. Is that right?


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 Post subject: Re: Subba's decal tips
PostPosted: Wed Feb 15, 2012 12:04 pm 
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I was ready to go with the laser printer type but was scared off by the printer damage thing. This is already costing me too much. I tried a different inkjet paper by Lazertran that works well without an overcoat. What I've found however is that it doesn't seem to like the automotive paint, perhaps the metallic finish is the problem, but over Rust-oleum Painters Touch it stays flat with no worm trails underneath. The material is more like a paper than a clear decal, so I use 'heirloom white' which blends perfectly. I bake the undercoat a short bit before the decals. This material will not tolerate any baking after the Rust-oleum clear coat is on as the decal starts to brown quickly. My heat shrink gun seems to be safe for it though. If I can find a place to print them for me I'd still like to try the laser printer cl;ear material and have more flexibility, but for now I'm happy.
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 Post subject: Re: Subba's decal tips
PostPosted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 1:28 pm 
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Do you guys have any idea how well waterslide decals work on a wavy surface?

I did a couple of pedals this weekend and I put on a "swirl" paint job. Looking at it this morning I can see the surface is really not level at all, the paint I got was pretty thick. I thought it would level out overnight, but it did not.

I planned on using some microsol, and waterslide(for labels, and a logo), then envirotex

any thoughts?

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 Post subject: Re: Subba's decal tips
PostPosted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 6:33 pm 
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Damn, those are some of the coolest swirls I've seen. You sure you want to cover that top up :) If bumpy I guess you might have to for your knobs to seat.

Anyway, all I have is thoughts and they conflict. On the one hand, my mind tells me if you get clear water slides, they are so thin they would probably lay down just fine over the bumps. On the other hand, you have dark backgrounds so you have to use white water slide decals to actually see your decal and get the true colors of whatever you put on there which are a little thicker. My gut is telling me it will work long enough for you to epoxy that sucker. What I might do is decal before you go to bed, wake up in the morning and epoxy it. Hopefully the decal will not have pulled up. But, even if it say comes up near a bump, as long as it is not on an edge, maybe the weight of the epoxy would push it back down.

I think it will look darn cool if you can get it to work out.

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 Post subject: Re: Subba's decal tips
PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2012 9:10 am 
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Thanks for the feedback man. I tried water slide decals, but as you pointed out the clear stuff just does not hold up against the darker backgrounds.

I'm going to order some white water slides, that stuff is totally opaque right? I haven't used that kind before. If that does not work I'll be hand painting labels on.

After labeling I was planning on using some envirotex... Never used it before but it looks super durable and I'm hoping it will help level things out. Given the texture of my pedals I'm thinking I may get a neat 3d effect if I level the surface. Only one way to find out.


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 Post subject: Re: Subba's decal tips
PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2012 9:36 am 
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Envirotex - decal - envirotex? Just thinking out loud, but the epoxies I've worked with have leveled really well, so that might get you a surface you can work with over the swirls.

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