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I recently built a Green Pony and this pedal is about as near perfect as any I have tried when playing strats & teles through my Fender 68 Custom Deluxe Reverb, and my Fender 68 Custom Princeton Reverb. This pedal absolutely kills with single coils. The only minor issue that I found is the variance when switching the bass toggle. When in the center ”Thin” setting, it seems way to thin to me, sounds like a transistor radio. Also, the “Normal” setting seems too thin. The “Fat” setting is absolute perfection!!

My question is, has anyone modded theirs to narrow the gap between the toggle positions? To me, if I could get the “Thin” setting to sound like the “Normal” setting, and get the “Normal” setting closer to the “Fat” setting this pedal would be a perfect 10.

Looking at the schematic, it looks like changing values on C4, C5, and C6 might be an option. I’m still a newbie at this so any suggestions or help would be greatly appreciated. I wouldn’t want to change anything about the current “Fat” setting.

Note: I have also built a Blue Overdrive w/Mod & and an OD-855 (both also great pedals!!)

Those are indeed the three caps that you want to play with. The effective capacitance of the three switch positions are .047uf (thin; C4 only), .094uf (normal; C4 + C5) and 0.377uf (fat; C4 +C6). My recommendation would be to change the C4 cap to 0.1uf, the C5 to 0.1uf also, and the C6 cap to 0.27uf. This would give you effective capacitance values for the T/N/F toggle positions of 0.1 uf, 0.2uf and 0.37uf respectively. These values should get you VERY close to what you've described as ideal.

These values are all available in polyester film caps from BYOC: https://buildyourownclone.com/collections/capacitors-1

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

Awesome!! Thanks for the quick reply. I’ll order the parts in the next couple days and give it a try. I love the pedal but if these mods work it will be even better!!

Happy to help. Below is a labeled PCB map for the Green Pony so that you can see which caps are C4, C5 & C6. Be cautious when removing the original caps, since it's pretty easy to damage the eyelets or board traces if you try to force things. I find that a solder sucker and good quality desoldering braid are invaluable tools for component removal and clean-up of the board prior to installing the new components. BYOC sells both, but I must admit to not being a big fan of the particular brand of braid they offer. My favorite brand is linked below--the stuff sucks up molten solder like a sponge!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008O9VLA2/

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

Perfect! Thanks again for your help.

Update: I just completed the Green Pony bass toggle mod. I ended up using a .1uf in C4, a .15uf in C5, and a .27uf in C6. These values are perfect for me. Much more balance when switching from “Thin to Normal”, and from “Normal to Fat”. Works great with all my guitars now; Strats, Teles, Les Paul, and PRS McCarty 594.

Easy mod to do. I highly recommend it!

Big thanks to duhvoodooman for his help! Thanks also for the recommendation on the desoldering braid. It works about 10 times better than what I was using.