Build Your Own Clone Message Board

I'm curious why, given that you have already isolated the boost section of the Klon, you haven't released it as it's own pedal. Don't get me wrong, the Silver Pony II is a great pedal and it was fun to build. But, the boost is absolutely fantastic with my Strats and I would love to have that pedal in a smaller footprint. Also, why no separate Klon buffer section? It is also one of the best buffers I've ever heard. Makes your overall tone great whether engaged or not.

Making that its own pedal and/or a module for the Crown Jewel is on "the list". It's just a little difficult bringing a new product to market right now. The "buffer" is in there. The footswitch is just wired for true bypass. You could modify it for buffered bypass. You would need an extra 4u7 electrolytic capacitor, 100k resistor, and 560ohm resistor.

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*patience is a virtue*

Please do not PM me. email is prefered. keith@buildyourownclone.com

If you're reasonably good with schematics, you can figure out how to do this from the schematic in the instructions for the original Rev.1.0 Silver Pony, which was NOT true bypass and had the buffer always active. It's available here: http://byocelectronics.com/silverponyin ... ns-old.pdf

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“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

Thank you. Both of you. I'm going to do my best to figure this out. But I'm not the best with schematics. I can usually follow the general idea. But I don't always know the function of all of the parts.

So, I see the difference on the schematic at the output. But I'm a little confused how to wire those three parts to the switch.

Do I just wire the 3pdt switch the way it is wired on the Silver Pony v1 to use the built in buffer for buffered bypass?

If this is the same pedal that you did the "before/after" effect switching mod on, I would caution you about trying to further modify it with the "always-on buffer." It's going to be considerably more complicated now with that additional effect order switch in place.

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

Okay. I appreciate the heads up. It sounds good as is. So, I’ll probably just leave it alone. Maybe I’ll build a second SPII with buffered bypass, in addition to this. Haha. Are there any resources you would recommend I read to do that?

You might want to try it with the Silver Pony kit rather than the SPII, unless you absolutely need the separate onboard boost and three different clipping modes. In which case, I'd suggest comparing the layout and schematic of that pedal (which is the rev.2.1 version) against the rev.1, which had the always-on buffer. The instructions for that one are here: http://byocelectronics.com/silverponyin ... ns-old.pdf. The schematic is shown on page 26. Note the differences in the input and output of the circuit on the schematic, and the much different footswitch wiring. Because the input jack is permanently connected to the beginning of the effect circuit (where the buffer is!), the 4-5-6 lugs of the footswitch that handle the incoming signal switching in most BYOC pedals are unused in the rev.1 version of the SP.

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

Thanks! I've been comparing the two and I'm seeing what you are saying. So, that footswitch configuration on v1 is part of what makes it buffered, in conjunction with the resistors and caps at the input?

Unlike true bypass pedals which isolate the effect circuit from the signal path by disconnecting it at the input and output, the v1 has the input, which starts with the buffer (comprised of C1, R1 and IC1b), permanently connected to the rest of the pedal circuit. The "branch point" comes immediately after the IC at pin 7; one branch goes through the effect circuit and ends at lug 7 of the footswitch, while the other bypasses the effect circuit and connects to lug 9. Your footswitch then connects one or the other path to the pedal output jack via lug 8.

As previously mentioned, lugs 4, 5 & 6 of the footswitch aren't even connected in this switching scheme, and lugs 1, 2 & 3 just operate the LED and nothing else.

_________________
“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2

Okay. I think I see why you are suggesting the v1 if what I am looking for is buffered bypass on this. Thanks for the explanation.